Monday, January 25, 2010

JAPAN - November 2009 Travelreport (better late than never!)



Visiting Japan was a truly amazing and educational experience.  Relaxing, it was not, as we do not take relaxing holidays often.  We visited many sites and enjoyed getting to know the intricacies of general existence in the ‘land of the rising sun.’  Traveling from California, we arrived in Japan after a 12 hour flight and then endured 2 hours on a bus to our hotel in Tokyo (from Narita airport).  Amazingly we were tired but jetlag was not a problem.  Basically at a 17 hour time difference (losing time from where we came from) makes the body feel like there really was not much of a change.  Coming back though was a different story.
On our weeklong adventure we spent time in Osaka, Kyoto, Nara and Tokyo.  All these cities had something different to offer and all were worth visiting.  We fell in love right away with the public transportation system which runs smoothly and efficiently.  From the subways to high-speed trains, everything is punctual, regardless of the day of the week.  Now onto the sites; in Osaka (a very modern city with not that much old stuff to see) we went to Osaka Castle, built in 1931 is not exactly like the original built in 1536, but pretty close to it and VERY imposing.  At the top of its seven stories, you get a lovely look out over Osaka and its surroundings.  If you lodge in the city you can explore far and wide, getting to know Western Honshu.  We took daytrips to Kyoto and Nara, both early capitals of Japan.  Kyoto is a magnificent old city and it is worthwhile to check out the Gion, with its traditional wooden architecture.  In addition, checking out Pontocho, Kyoto’s traditional nightlife district (with many yummy restaurants) is a great idea.  Both places give you a sense of what it was like in old Japan.  We also walked up to one of the oldest wooden structures in the world, a UNESCO heritage site, 1,000 years old, Kiyomizu Temple.  The view from up there is spectacular, and visiting in the fall we certainly got a great glimpse of the beautiful red and yellow leaves.  There are quite a few shrines on the way up and various alters, all absolutely worth seeing.  When you visit Japan’s magnificent capital, from the 11th century to 1868, you will no doubt have plenty to do.  We also recommend checking out Nijo Castle, a Shogun residence, with wooden construction which insures that when you walk the floorboards make a chirping sound like that of birds.  This was done so that intruders wishing to endanger its inhabitants, would be heard, an alarm system of the old days I like to think.
In Nara, Japan’s first capital, you will surely enjoy checking-out the Kofuku-ji Temple complex, where sacred deer wander freely.  This place is complete with a pagoda and a giant Buddha statue, the Great Buddha Vairocana.  It is a very cool place to go, but be warned that the deer have no qualms with literally mounting you if they see you with food.  In same general area where the temple resides, you will want to see the Kasuga Shrine with its 3,000 magnificent lanterns.  The temple itself also boasts a whole through a wooden pillar, which if you can slither your way through, assures you will attain nirvana.  The Great Buddha is truly awe-inspiring and honestly was one of the most magnificent things we saw in Japan.  After our half day in Nara, we decided to catch a train to view the Fushimi-Inari  shrine, one of many shrines to Inari the deity of rice and sake.  This one is very interesting by its look, with bright orange gates forming a long tunnel-like structure.  They were donated by the local business people as an offering to Inari, in hopes of attaining a very prosperous business future.
Back in Tokyo we checked out the Tokyo Metropolitan building for its views.  On a clear day you can not only see all of Tokyo and beyond, but also Mt. Fuji.  Unfortunately, on our late November visit we only saw sprawling Tokyo and a giant cloud over the summit of Mt. Fuji.  We also checked out Tokyo’s low city  (Yanaka) and Ameyoko Market.  Both places were good for some minor souvenir shopping.  Make sure you visit the Senso-ji Temple, popularly known as Asakusa Kannon.  It is Tokyo’s most sacred temple and it truly offers a lot to the visitor.  From the busy, majestic entrance with a spectacular lantern, the amazing murals inside the temple itself, to the shopping and street food in the alley that leads to the main hall.  Other must do’s are Ueno Park (site of a great battle now a commemorative park), Shibuya (department store and crowds galore), East Shinjuku (late night party scene & red-light district Kabukicho) and the Meiji shrine (Tokyo’s revered Shinto shrine).  If you visit the Shinto shrine on a Saturday, you will likely see quite a few traditional dress Japanese weddings and families in traditional dress worshipping and taking photos.
 We also checked out a beautiful park in the northern part of Tokyo: Rikugien Park. The landscaping & fall-colors were breathtaking. It's a real treat, you should enjoy a nice leisurely afternoon walk there. Lastly, make sure that you don’t miss out on Ginza, the heart of Tokyo.  You will find the imperial palace in the general vicinity, the imperial gardens (you can visit these), lots of department stores and a guide to a self-guided tour of this very historical section of the city. If you are looking for one of the world’s busiest intersections, you will find it in Ginza, the Yon-chome crossing. 
Now a few thoughts on food and culture. Japan is a spectacular country with lots of traditions that to the average Western traveler are somewhat confusing.  That is not to say that you will have a hard time figuring things out, and most people are friendly and willing to help.  If you do a little homework before showing up in Japan, you will do just fine.  If you are open to trying new things, food will not be a challenge.  If you are more of a picky eater or a vegetarian, finding suitable cuisine will be more difficult.  Mainstream hotels offer Western type breakfast as part of the room rate and also have a variety of Western-like restaurants.  These can be a bit pricey for lunch or dinner and may not always have vegetarian or vegan food.  We do not have any real dietary restrictions so we tried a variety of things.  Nothing we ate, from sushi to Balinese food, onto fantastic udon and soup was expensive.  The exception was our Kobe beef dinner which still stands as the most expensive dinner for two we have ever had, and we have eaten at some fine restaurants.  And if you do come across soft-serve ice cream in a green tea-vanilla swirl, you must experience it.
One word sums up Japanese transportation: TRAINS.  There is no need to rent a car, although a bike rental may not be a bad idea in some places.  If you don’t mind walking and can make sense of train schedules, then you are good to go.  As mentioned above, Japan really does ruin you for public transportation in most Western countries.  The subways and trains are so efficient, always on time, clean and all around just a pleasure to take. Just remember to be on time to all your train rides – they do leave on time, no exceptions.
The Japanese we encountered were friendly, well-mannered, helpful and always accommodating. We had a great unique trip; we enjoyed the quirks, indulged in the food and soaked up the atmosphere and culture. Now that we explored most of the Honshu main island we look forward to come back to Japan and sample the north (Hokkaido) and southern Japan.